Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
